Another damp day, although things kicked off relatively bright out of Bude this morning. A gentle grassy and sandy start through Bude and towards Duckpool. Long views south along the surf. Then a series of stiff, steep climbs further north.
A brief stop at Hawker’s Hut: a driftwood lean-to perched on a cliff edge close by the very northern Cornish village of Morwenstow, built by the eccentric, pig-walking Reverend Robert Stephen Hawker who buried shipwreck victims (whether they were dead or not) in the Morwenstow churchyard in the early 1800s. He allegedly sat smoking spliff in this very hut whilst composing hallucinatory poetry. Village residents recalled his ten cats following him into church every Sunday. Hawker is credited with bringing the Harvest Festival back into fashion and he found fame by writing the poem “The Song of the Western Men”.
Then down to Marshland Mouth to cross a little wooden footbridge to leave Cornwall behind and three steps to Devon once more. Has been a long jaunt around the entire Cornish coast since Plymouth.
Walked atop rugged, precipitous cliffs in increasingly persistent precipitation. Dropped down to Speke’s Mill Mouth and ogled its impressive waterfall, enjoying a healthy flow in the current weather conditions. Thence to Hartland Quay and the Wrecker’s Retreat, 16 weary miles on the pins for the day.