a border through breakfast and other wrinkled settlements

Another Scattered Showered Day.  Into Cornwall for the first time via the Cremyll Ferry and a damp, speedy walk through Mount Edgcombe Park to the conjoined-twin villages of Kingsand and Cawsand, where the original Devon-Cornwall border famously used to run directly through someone’s house.  Hence, presumably, a resident could have cooked breakfast in one county and eaten it in the other.  Then the rolling climb out to Rame Head and its lonely abandoned chapel perched atop.  Conservationally grazing horses were met.





From there a masculine right-hander to turn westward via the verdant green of Whitsand Bay, thence through a stretch of overgrown trail that stung and spiked the shins with nettles and thistles summat rotten, before dropping down onto Tregantle Beach.  In temporarily clearing skies, an excellent two-mile-plus walk over the hard sand directly adjacent to the crashing surf.  Taking a gamble that there would be an obvious way out on the western end, ended up scramble-climbing over sharp, barnacle-encrusted rocks and leaping over mid-level rock pools, before finding a partially-used, steep set of steps cut into the cliff.  Lucky, in other words.  Then up and along to the left-out-in-the-rain-too-long village of Portwrinkle and a few miles further west through Downderry, and finally to the Cornish Seaton.




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